People and spirits

NOTE: I am just going to jot down what I've seen on the topic so far...I have no big conclusions or stuff and the post might turn long. But I am hoping that if I write things down it will bring some clarity on it to my head also :)

Religion is a big thing here. I am assuming it is in all of South East Asia, but the fact that in Malaysia you have so much ethnic and religious diversity, makes things more complicated. Or more interesting. Depending on how you want to take it.

One of the things that I really like about the environment that I am currently in, is that it gives me the chance to talk and get to know locals from all layers of life. The students here are coming from villages in the middle of the jungle and are Orang Asli. Some of the teachers around are people from poor backgrounds that have gone through the program of the NGO and have now reached a better status (for them I mean:)). Some of the people working in the organisation (in proper jobs in functional departments) are highly educated people, very worldly and having been exposed to many many different things. Getting to know people here is somehow very easy, so you can end up talking politics with your Uber driver quite naturally. Yes, I am a big user of Uber nowadays and I must say that one of the reasons is also that the drivers are generally middle class people that are very willing to talk and share stuff. Also, it feels safer than the taxi. Much safer :) Then there's other people we met through going out and stuff. My point being: the exposure to the local feel has been much greater than I had anticipated.

Throughout all the meetings, conversations and such, a topic kept coming back. First it was mainly among the foreigners working for the organisation. I kept finding myself in situations where "ghost stories" would be told. By quite pragmatic and not easily to influence people. I sort of dismissed it in the beginning but I found it very odd that three days in a row, with different groups of people, the conversation would turn to ghosts and spirits.

When I visited the centres, things started to make sense. The CDO at the last centre (a Serbian guy mind you) started telling us how spirits have utmost power in his village. How people just leave his classes all of a sudden because a spirit has been unleashed (he does not always figure out how that happens), how they get scared all of a sudden and tell him to go inside also, how they always burn incense and how the shaman in his village does not want to talk to him about such things (as it is not to be spoken of!). It started becoming clearer...people were always talking about spirits because they were being constantly exposed to such beliefs in their communities.

That was all very nice and interesting, but I also had a dismissive attitude...people in villages have the strangest beliefs, after all! :) So I was really surprised when on Friday, a guy from Indonesia started telling us very seriously about the spirits in his home town. We had been mentioning that we would like to visit him there - he went on seriously about how it depends on the period. How you would not want to be exposed to spirits you cannot handle and so on. My first reaction was making fun. But I realised that the university educated, IT programmer, living abroad guy was actually very serious. The NGOs IT manager joined in the conversation...by this point I had a million questions that I just fired away (I still need to learn that bluntness is not as appreciated here as it was in NL :)). Their point of view was that they are not religious but they do believe in various things gathered around from various religions. Not the type of "I'll take what suits me best from each of these religions" thing, but more the "I've seen, read, listened to, talked to various people and here are the conclusions I've reached so far" thing. As a consequence I got to hear the story of the pragmatic guy going to the shaman and trying to explain to me why he was doing that. The story of relatives of theirs going in trances and not remembering things afterwards. Stories of how they were affected by random things that they could not explain.

The whole evening and the conversation was surprising and conflicting on some level. I am still not sure why, but some of the things I tracked down are:

- The conversation is carried out at a totally different level than in Europe, and definitely than in the Netherlands. I don't even mean a higher or lower level, just different. There is so much more direct contact with various forms of beliefs and religions here, that the discussion even starts at a different point. Christianity is almost the boring part of it and everybody knows so much about all sorts of different types of beliefs and religions.

- Things are blurrier here. In Europe I had the feeling you got the believers and non-believers. The grey area here is much larger...first the question of which ethnic group you belong to comes into play. Then the “what religion you have?” appears (by the way, I was reading a story of how you always need to tick a box with your religion here when filling in admin papers – the option of No religion does not exist :) YOU MUST BE SOMETHING!!!). Then the “I believe that from that, and the other one from that, and some more from that” thing appears.

- I got intrigued by the spirits and shaman stories. In Romania you would have people possessed because of bad deeds they or their ancestors did. Here you have spirits being taken on by specially selected people as part of rituals, good spirits that come if you pray for them, evil spirits that actually take over your body and mind due to something you did in a past life - there's also some interesting theories about how that comes to happen. It seems people actually sort of choose their spirit, in the sense that the spirit stems from weaknesses of the person's past life, or from events that the person has not learned what they were supposed to.

- I am sooo ignorant! :) Most of the things they were talking about, I sort of had some knowledge of. But I realised how limited my understanding is. And how unused to having such conversations I am. It made me wonder if I would have understood better, had I not spent so much time in NL. By that I do not mean that the experience in NL has been in any way bad. Just that it seems that the exposure to spirituality there is very different. Maybe only because it does not play as essential a part there as it does in every day life here, or even in Romania.